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"Men are like a deck of cards, you need a heart to love 'em, a diamond to marry 'em, a club to beat 'em and a spade to bury 'em”

found at hendontimes.co.uk Friday 30th November 2007

DIAMONDS are a girl's best friend, but they've also been pretty good to Antwerp over the years.

In the 15th century, when dealing in these most precious stones was done in the city's inns, would anyone have believed just how important the industry would be today? Diamonds have given the city wealth, which in turn has allowed it to flourish in areas like the arts - to become a true city of culture.

Groenplaats with cathedral onze lieve vrouw in Antwerp (© Joris Luyt)

Antwerp is home to nearly half a million people and is the economic hub of the Flanders region in northern Belgium. It is Europe's second largest port and, after Brussels, is the country's second biggest city.

For a long time, Antwerp was called "Hantwerpen", Dutch for "hand throwing". Legend has it that a giant once controlled a stretch of the River Scheldt, demanding a heavy toll from passing ships. He would cut off the hand of any non-paying captain. It was a Roman soldier who ended this by chopping off the giant's hand and throwing it into the river.

There's a rather curious statue of the Roman holding the dismembered hand, in the main square (the Grote Markt), where you'll also find the magnificent town hall (Stadhuis) and elegant 16th and 17th century guildhouses. From here it's only a short stroll to the Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady, which dominates the city skyline. It was completed in 1521 after 170 years of building, and the partly Baroque interior houses many works of art, including four stunning paintings by Rubens, as well as magnificent stained glass windows. It remains one of the most peaceful, atmospheric places in the city, especially when the light outside is fading.

You can discover more about the life of Peter Paul Rubens at his home and place of work, which he bought in 1610. Rubenshuis contains 10 of his works, including Self-portrait, Adam and Eve in Paradise and a portrait of the painter Van Dyck, another notable Antwerp resident, as a boy. The house itself is stunning, and features an inner courtyard and baroque portico.

Today, the city's most important craft involves more glittering objects, and there are so many opportunities to learn more about nature's hardest material and its impact on Antwerp. The Diamond Museum houses a stunning collection. The current exhibition, Bling Bling - The Crown Jewels of Hip Hop, was put together by local youth and tells how diamonds have become a part of hip hop. Next year, Diamond Divas will feature diamond jewellery worn by Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren, among others. Meanwhile, at Diamondland you can see skilled polishers and cutters at work.

There are about 1,500 diamond companies and four diamond exchanges now within a square kilometre area of the city centre, and the industry in Antwerp has an annual turnover of US$39 billion. The diamond trade, traditionally associated with the city's Jewish population, is now a multicultural industry. The Diamond District is located close to the railway station (there are even several jewellery stores within the station), and the surrounding streets are great for window shopping.

But if your budget is more carrots than carats, there are other treats on offer. Belgium is famous for its chocolate, and there are chocolatiers all over Antwerp. For example, at Goosens you'll find skilfully "cut" chocolate diamonds, "Antwerp hands", hearts and even explosive chocolates made using carbon dioxide.

The fashion industry is another important facet of Antwerp. Many successful designers have passed through the city's influential fashion academy, including the likes of Tim Van Steenbergen and Bernhard Willhelm. You can find out more on a visit to the MoMu fashion museum and the Flanders Fashion Institute. Unsurprisingly, you'll never run out of clothes shopping options in Antwerp. Walk around Nationalestraat and the surrounding area, and you'll find a range of stores. For bargains, Labels Inc, in Aalmoezenier, is the place to go for second hand designer clothes, while in the historic centre of the city, around the Meir, you'll find department and international chain stores.

If all that shopping has built up an appetite, there are plenty of choices. Hoffy's is a charismatic Kosher restaurant in Lange Kievitstraat serving delicious food (starters £5, mains £13). If you're looking for Michelin-star quality, head for The Dome, a small, intimate French restaurant with a stunning domed ceiling, located in the charming Zurenborg area of town (starters from £11, mains from £19).

For a bird's eye view on contemporary urban lifestyle, and perhaps the best views over the city, visit Lucy. Set on the top floor of a tower block, Lucy hosts monthly exhibitions from post-contemporary and street artists, while there are also DJs, album releases, lectures, workshops, film screenings and more. You can also enjoy some great cooking. For example a surprisingly tasty regional dish is Witloof - chicory baked in a thick Emmental layer (about £8). But hurry, Lucy has only been given the space until February 2008 when the office block is renovated.

Grote Markt and the Stadhuis, Antwerp © Tourism Antwerp

And at the end of a busy day remember, you still have more than 500 varieties of Belgian beer to sample. But with so much to see in Antwerp, you'll never have time to drink them all.

Antwerp has a wide range of accommodation, from hostels through to luxury hotels. Guesthouses generally cost $30-$60 (£21-£43) a more expensive guesthouse I can recommend is Antwerpen Bed And Breakfast named de gulden baers . More expensive hotels include the centrally placed four-star Astrid Plaza, which has rooms for $129 (£92).

For further information about accommodation, attractions and more, contact Tourism Flanders - Brussels, www.visitflanders.co.uk, tel 020 7307 7738 (0800 9545242 for brochures).

If like me you like African Art visit dealer David Norden in the old city near the Groenplaats, Sint Katelijnevest 27.

NICK ELVIN, Friday 30th November 2007

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